La Crème Pignoulet / Crème brûlée

22 Le Crême Pignoulet : Crème brûlée

The French have done it again, they have left me speechless and not for the first time. I am talking food of course, and their attitude to it! I was in France over the summer and I had one of the simplest, yet sublimely made puddings in years.

So what is it with the French and food? I put it down to the love and care they invariably lavish on the cooking of their food. Don’t get me wrong, once can find excellent restaurants across the globe. Here in Spain for example there are some of the best restaurants in the world. France also has some really excellent world-class restaurants, but it is the quality of your average village restaurant that is worthy of note.  They will often serve an exquisitely prepared meal for a relative pittance. The pudding I ate, the object of this article, was served to me as part of the restaurant’s 12€ daily three-course menu.

I had gone over the Pyrenees and was eating in one of my favourite restaurants in the town of Laruns. Both the town and the restaurant have been the object of previous articles, but I can never resist just popping over the border, filling up the car with local edible French goodies, then topping up my own tank with a good meal in the restaurant there.

The restaurant is called “L’Arrégalet” and is on a side-street not that far from the central square:

01 The restaurant

They call their pudding “La Crème Pignoulet”.

02 Their Crême

I don’t often ask the restaurants I visit for any details of the food they serve, they are after all running a business, creating and serving their dishes to make money. It does not therefore seem appropriate for me to “steal” any of their secrets, and publish them on the Internet for all to see.

To read the rest of the article and to see the recipe please click here.


2017 Lincoln W. Betteridge



Coney (or Chicken) in Confit

13 Coney in Confit

Before I start let me state immediately that this recipe works equally well with chicken. Just substitute the rabbit for a couple of chicken legs.

There is a Spanish saying that (translated) goes something like “The cleanest house is not the one that is cleaned the most but rather the one that is dirtied the least!” Wise words indeed…….

One could easily apply this to personal finances, where personal wealth might be less related to what one earns but rather how much, or indeed how little, one spends. Perhaps the recent financial crisis has taught us that we shouldn’t be spend so much of our hard-earned cash on mere whims and nice-to-haves, on things we perhaps can’t afford rather than on what we really need? I strongly suspect the recent financial crisis has taught us nothing, but that is another story for another day…….

At home we reuse everything, subconsciously, without even thinking about it. As I write this now, I am recalling the three-course meal we prepared yesterday, for a couple of friends who we invited round. We cooked what we wanted to cook, it is only now, looking back, that I realise just how little it cost…… almost nothing in fact.

We had a pasta salad which was very cheap, but in fact was probably the most expensive part of the meal! This was followed up with macerated then slow cooked hare. The neighbour shot the hare, the vegetables were from our allotment, although I most own up to purchasing half a bottle of the local wine to steep the hare in. For pudding, an apricot betty. The apricots were mine and the topping was made from breadcrumbs.

So what has the above got to do with coney in confit? Probably not a lot if I am honest!

1988 26 Sallent de Gallego

Sallent de Gállego

…………… To read the rest of the article and to see the recipe please click here.


2017 Lincoln W. Betteridge


Pork Rilette


I love living in Spain, the sun, the people and of course the fantastic food. In fact in my book, it is one of the best countries in the world for food. I live in the north of Spain, not that far from the French border. If there is one country in the world that could possibly push Spain into second place, it would be France. I am therefore ideally placed to sample the culinary skills of two of the finest exponents of the art. There is however one part of France that holds a special place in my heart, or should I say stomach, and that is the Périgord region.



I have visited Provence a couple of times, I have travelled through France a few times too, particularly up around Bordeaux and the western coast, I even worked in the centre of Paris for a couple of years. I am sure there are many culinary delights still waiting to be discovered, but so far Périgord is my preferred corner of France……..

……….Although traditionally more of a northern French dish, I wanted to share with you today the rilette, a coarse pâté-like dish normally eaten with bread or toast. Unlike a true pâté it contains no liver and it can be made with many different meats or indeed fish. I have chosen the traditional way with belly pork. It is amazing to me how the French can they take something as simple as belly pork and turn it into a veritable delicacy, with just the addition of a few other basic ingredients…….

To read the rest of the article a see the recipe please click here.

Palets Bretons

On the outskirts of the town is a supermarket we tend to visit. It has all manner of French produce and in particular duck in confit and cassoulet. I have always been fond of duck and in confit has to be one of the best ways of eating it. On this last trip we picked up a packet of biscuits of a type called “Palets Bretons”. We had never tried them before but that didn’t stop us, nothing ventured nothing gained as they say. They were in fact delicious as they melted in the mouth. I decided that I had to have a go at making my own.

4 - Finished Palets

This is one recipe where I would recommend not substituting the butter for margarine or similar. I must admit to being undecided as to which is better for one’s health and when I am in doubt I tend to opt for the natural product. Unfortunately my trust in food processing companies is low and waning. Also, importantly, I think that in this case the butter improves both the texture and the flavour.

The finished palets have a sharp cut edge. The recipe below will explain how to do this………

For the rest of the post and the recipe please click here.


A few posts ago I mentioned the town of Laruns in a post on the Gâteau Basque. As I wanted to mention three different recipes related to the town I always planned on writing three posts. This is the second of the trilogy.

The French really do know how to enjoy good food. I have had some really memorable meals in France, without having gone to any of the more famous restaurants. It seems like even the local cafe in some forgotten village has a board of fare worthy of mention. They take the most simple of ingredients, with uncomplicated cooking methods, and turn out some real culinary gems. So when my wife and I decided to go on the trip to Laruns, we decided to have lunch out.

I like to try new dishes and I opted for the “Garbure”. The post today looks at this simple but oh so delicious dish. It uses confit duck leg to give the stock a good flavour.

The Finished Dish

The Finished Dish

Please click here to see the rest of the post!

Gâteau Basque

As you know I am all about in season produce. Today I thought I would talk about one of my favourite cakes, as it contains almonds, and here at least it is the almond season. I have also just come back from a trip to Laruns, my original source of this delicious delicacy.

Laruns and the mountains

Laruns, France

Laruns is a small French town in the central Pyrenees. It is the last major town before the Portalet pass into northern Spain. The town has much to recommend it, from the Gabas cheese from just up the road, to the chilled sweet white wines that are perfect for hot summer days, or the Gâteau Basque.

It is many years since I bought my first Gâteau Basque in the small bakery in the centre of town and I have

Gâteau Basque Layers

Gâteau Basque Layers

continued to buy them every time I have been down that way. As I commented in a previous post, I love custard, and this gâteau has a custard like middle layer. Unfortunately I could never work out what the outer layers were! The way it just melted in the mouth was so divine…… I decided I had to find a recipe.

The gâteau gets its name from the Basque Country, which is an area on the Atlantic coast of Spain that has a narrow border with France. Good food is to be had in most if not all of Spain, but is especially good in the Basque Country. As it is wetter than much of Spain, vegetables grow well and there is good grass to fatten livestock or to produce good quality milk and cheeses. They also have the Atlantic coast for fishing.

I decided it was time to consult my friend and advisor Google, who would surely know the answer. Alas it was not to be. A couple of years went by without much progress. I would buy a Gâteau Basque in Laruns and upon eating the last crumb burst into a flurry of activity trawling the web in search of a recipe. I found very few and those that I found never gave the gâteau I was looking for. Also, although I travelled relatively often to the Basque Country, I never actually saw a gâteau in a cake shop either.

It wasn’t until relatively recently that the obvious answer hit me. Talk about not seeing the wood for the trees……. I could get the gâteau in France, and the “Greater” Basque Country used to occupy an area in the south of France too. As soon as I started searching the internet in French I came up with recipes that did sound like what I was buying in Laruns. So after much searching and no small amount of trial and error, here is my version of the traditional (French) Gâteau Basque:

Gâteau Basque

Ingredients (20cm diameter gâteau):

For the custard filling:Gateaux Basque

250ml Milk

50g Sugar

1/2 Vanilla pod

2 drops Almond essence

3 Egg yolks

20g Flour

50g Ground almonds

For the pastry:

250g Flour

10g Baking powder

1 Egg, beaten

100g Sugar

Pinch Salt

125g Butter, melted

For the glaze:

1/2 Egg yolk

7.5ml Milk


Before I jump in with the how, a couple of comments:

Although this recipe is longer and more complex than what I normally post, do not be put off. It is not that difficult. Please also note that although the pastry is delicate, it shouldn’t be rolled out too thin. This is one of those recipes, thankfully, that bucks the current trend of wafer-thin pastry. This pastry is there to be eaten and is delicious. So just roll it out normally and put into the tin. If you do end up with breakages or holes in the pastry, they can be fixed by simply pressing in a little more dough. So don’t worry and give it a try. Do not use commercial shop-bought pastry, it will not be the same.

Boil the milk with two thirds of the custard filling sugar, the vanilla pod and the almond essence for a few minutes. Leave for a couple of hours to steep. Open vanilla pod. Extract seeds and beat back into the milk.

Meanwhile make the pastry. Mix the flour and baking powder then beat in the egg with a spoon. Beat in the sugar and the melted butter. Add just enough cold water, normally just a few drops, to make a pastry then seal in cling film for about 30 minutes.

Note that if margarine is used instead, you should chill the dough for at least an hour. Butter will harden quicker and the pastry will not roll out well.

With a whisk beat together the custard filling egg yolks, remaining sugar and the flour. Slowly beat in the milk. Beat in the almonds. Bring back to the boil to thicken up the custard.

Preheat the oven to 190ºC.

Take a 20cm diameter tin with straight sides. Grease with butter and sprinkle with flour before use.

Gateaux BasqueRoll out two thirds of the pastry and cover the base and the sides of the tin. Leave an overlap. Pour in the custard. Take the other third, roll out and use the base of the tin to cut out a circle. Carefully place over the custard.

Beat together the glaze ingredients.

Trim the pastry along the sides of the dish if necessary, there should be just enough to fold over onto the pastry circle lid. Paint the edge with a little of the glaze and fold down the pastry onto the lid pressing gently to seal around the edges.

Paint over the top of the gâteau with the rest of the glaze.

Bake for 30 minutes at 190ºC. Leave to cool in the mould.

Well I hope you like this French speciality. Give it a try and let me know what you think via the comments option on the post. Thanks.

2015 Lincoln W. Betteridge